I know it’s important to follow local customs in any country. But in my travels I’ve encountered several moments of injudicious behavior, especially during mealtimes. I loathe (yes, that’s more than hate) eating with a million utensils surrounding me. I know it’s somewhat practical but I can’t stand having too many decisions calling out to me when it was difficult enough to decide on what to eat. During my honeymoon, I found myself stressed out during mealtimes because every time I would get just one fork to eat with and gently place the others aside, the waiter would come by and rearrange them to annoy the living hunger out of me. That’s why I’m so thankful to be in a country where no utensils are needed. I love eating with my hands. Almost all authentic Mexican-American food is eaten best by ten digits. Tacos, chalupas, gorditas, chips and salsa, burritos, etc. Here in Togo it’s no different. Fufu, pate, rice and beans, fried plantains, bananas (I’ve seen people eat these with a spoon, and it wasn’t even on a salad!) But, aside from the proper use of utensils or the right-hand, what do you do when you’ve eaten something your palate, tongue, and teeth disagree with? It’s only a second. It doesn’t take long to realize that you’ve eaten what your eyes warned wouldn’t be tasty but your mind adviced to be appropriate. After all, you can’t really say you don’t like it if you haven’t tried it. Well, I will advise you to give it a try, but once is enough. Except here in Togo, it’s pretty much the same meals everyday at every household. Sure, the sauces may be a bit different, but the fish is still intact and the chicken just doesn’t have enough meat to suck on.
Recently, we were invited over to a friend’s house who welcomed us as family. Someone always brings out water which we have to respectfully decline since it’s not filtered. Then we wait. Cooking with charcoal takes quite some time. But, we had a snack so we can wait. When the food is ready, they invite us in. The bring two enormous plates of food. One contains the pate, the other the sauce (with the fish. . . still intact.) I serve Tristan his plate, then mine giving us equal amounts of food which they never think is enough. After we pray they bring out what is perhaps the best invention in the world. No, not a fork. COCA COLA. Yes, this beverage has saved me more times than water in my travels (I obviously haven’t been stranded in any desert.) Coke cancels out the taste of bad food, is almost always served cold, and the bubbles play a little melody as they stream down. It’s been with me in almost all my “first” food adventures: when I first had sushi (which I now love); when I ate an unidentified piece of meat in Ghana; in Egypt eating street-food; in Brazil eating couscous (which I still don’t like); and in Greece when I ate a mound of mayo thinking it was ice cream. Coke has been there. Thank you Coca Cola and all it’s employees. Forget the embargo sanctions imposed to you. Travel well.
I must say, though, that I wasn’t in dire need of a coke this time around. The food was delicious and despite me reaching into my mouth to gather the tens of fish bones stuck in between my teeth and tongue, the meal and the company were very delightful. And the best part, I never had to reach for a fork.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Let’s Dance
I can’t think of a better way to work off all the calories I just ate than to dance it off. Back home I was a very timid dancer. I never liked dancing around others because I was afraid that I was constantly being judged, like in a beauty pageant without all the glamour and fame. But here in Togo, I love it. Our group loves dancing too. During a week-long seminar, we choreographed an amazing dance to the tune of Kanye West’s most popular song, “Gold Digger” or something like that. We even competed and won against the NRM (Natural Resource Management) group in March. To celebrate our one-year in country (yes, it’s been a year!!!) we went out dancing at a nightclub. I was getting very antsy because it was getting late (10 PM) and I had not danced all the food I ate for lunch, and it was A LOT. My friend’s knew I didn’t go out much considering that I was getting pretty tired by 10:30 PM. We finally danced the night away at midnight and I was working it. Yup. I can dance. All those years of practice-dancing in the privacy of my home paid off. J Now, if I could only sing I would be a Broadway star!
“Cleanliness is next to godliness”
I love to clean. Heck, apart from wanting to be a marine biologist, my other dream job would be to work in a huge mansion as a very well-paid maid, about 100K a year. If I could only deal with all the silverware (see “Etiquette 101” entry). J
No, really, I love cleaning. I do it almost every single day here in Togo. Well, I cleaned almost everyday in the US too, but I do it excessively here. During the harmattan season (November to March) I cleaned twice a day. I know, it’s ridiculous, but I couldn’t stand the look of unpolished wood. Most volunteers clean their homes once a month or once in their service. Some pride themselves on the latter, but I see nothing to be had. Cleaning is essential. Maybe not everyday, but at least once a week. Those same volunteers who clean once a year also have the worst hygiene. I still don’t understand why they make it a competition to have gone the longest without bathing or washing their clothes. Most Americans don’t like the way Togolese smell, but that’s because they don’t have deodorant, it’s not because they haven’t showered. But we as Americans should know the importance of good hygiene and have the means of purchasing a stick of deodorant, so there’s no excuse. Good hygiene prevents sickness and disease. It allows one to see potential areas of infection or growth, like skin cancer. Sure, some go overboard in the fragrance department, but a nice bar of soap can go a long way, no perfume needed. It’s difficult to teach on a subject matter so important to the well-being of others when the presenter doesn’t apply the information on him/herself.
Hygiene is a huge problem here in Togo in part because of lack of sewage infrastructure. Latrine projects are huge around here, but what happens when they fill up? Well, you make another one nearby, right? How often is this happening? From what I can see, not very often at all. In Lome people use the restroom on the ocean shore (that’s numbers 1 and2). So, if you see my pics of the ocean, you won’t see many people around. In Kpalime, people use the restroom just about anywhere. If you need to go, no need to hold it. Older women hike up their skirts and go. Who am I to tell them otherwise? Where can I tell them to go? There are no public restrooms and latrines are hard to find (or I’m just not looking hard enough.) I always see someone “using the restroom” on roadsides or against buildings. But, what gets me the most is when people relieve themselves in fields. This is never acceptable. How can it be? Some volunteers don’t buy fruits, veggies, or rice unless it comes from the grocery store, which is extremely expensive. But, I don’t blame them. I don’t buy certain local products, but I generally bleach all my fruits/veggies whether I peel them or not. I do my best to stay clean both inside and out. Now, if we could only have a competition to see who’s the cleanest. I already know my competition. Again, this is cleanest not best dressed. For that, there are a hundreds of Togolese who’ve got me beat.
No, really, I love cleaning. I do it almost every single day here in Togo. Well, I cleaned almost everyday in the US too, but I do it excessively here. During the harmattan season (November to March) I cleaned twice a day. I know, it’s ridiculous, but I couldn’t stand the look of unpolished wood. Most volunteers clean their homes once a month or once in their service. Some pride themselves on the latter, but I see nothing to be had. Cleaning is essential. Maybe not everyday, but at least once a week. Those same volunteers who clean once a year also have the worst hygiene. I still don’t understand why they make it a competition to have gone the longest without bathing or washing their clothes. Most Americans don’t like the way Togolese smell, but that’s because they don’t have deodorant, it’s not because they haven’t showered. But we as Americans should know the importance of good hygiene and have the means of purchasing a stick of deodorant, so there’s no excuse. Good hygiene prevents sickness and disease. It allows one to see potential areas of infection or growth, like skin cancer. Sure, some go overboard in the fragrance department, but a nice bar of soap can go a long way, no perfume needed. It’s difficult to teach on a subject matter so important to the well-being of others when the presenter doesn’t apply the information on him/herself.
Hygiene is a huge problem here in Togo in part because of lack of sewage infrastructure. Latrine projects are huge around here, but what happens when they fill up? Well, you make another one nearby, right? How often is this happening? From what I can see, not very often at all. In Lome people use the restroom on the ocean shore (that’s numbers 1 and2). So, if you see my pics of the ocean, you won’t see many people around. In Kpalime, people use the restroom just about anywhere. If you need to go, no need to hold it. Older women hike up their skirts and go. Who am I to tell them otherwise? Where can I tell them to go? There are no public restrooms and latrines are hard to find (or I’m just not looking hard enough.) I always see someone “using the restroom” on roadsides or against buildings. But, what gets me the most is when people relieve themselves in fields. This is never acceptable. How can it be? Some volunteers don’t buy fruits, veggies, or rice unless it comes from the grocery store, which is extremely expensive. But, I don’t blame them. I don’t buy certain local products, but I generally bleach all my fruits/veggies whether I peel them or not. I do my best to stay clean both inside and out. Now, if we could only have a competition to see who’s the cleanest. I already know my competition. Again, this is cleanest not best dressed. For that, there are a hundreds of Togolese who’ve got me beat.
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